Landing at Delhi after a flying start in Bangalore, Sly Granny is the new spot with longest waiting time in Khan market. Her menu takes cues from the trend of pretty comfort food and plates it with a (mostly) European nod and approachable prices. My first dish of 'New Potatoes and 'Chorizo' arrived with a jiggly poached egg on top, without the pesky vinegar aftertaste. Intense chorizo seasoned the wilted greens, though I wished that the potatoes were crisp-skinned. The main plate of 'Nicole’s Pasta' was hearty with al-dente spaghetti tossed in paprika and roast garlic flavoured olive oil, Kalamata olives, shaved parmesan, broccoli and a whole shallot which could have been jammy-er. The next plate of 'Fish Moilee with Curry Leaf Rice' and 'Kasundi Jhalmuri' had more imagination than flavour. The gorgeous hunk of seared sea bass, moist and flaky, sat on a rice mash tinged with curry leaves. A mildly flavoured shallow moat formed around with green-yellow curry oil against coconut milk stew. Halved-spheres of lightly sautéed 'Zucchini', a lone red-sorrel leaf and a wedge of lemon completed the plate. My first dessert, the 'Apple Pie' was arranged on a delicious cracker-like base and came with a disc of dehydrated apple and cinnamon dust on a scoop of vanilla ice cream. However, the puckering tartness of minced apples dazed out everything else. The 'Panookie' promised a just-off-the-skillet pan cookie but delivered something more like a warm oatmeal mound studded with melting chocolate chips. A scoop of ice cream, sprinkled with crumbs, rapidly formed into a puddle on the still-hot ceramic plate while I picked off the blowtorched marshmallows.
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